A Surprise Discovery in Gardone Rivera on Lago di Garda, Italy

The “Vittoriale degli Italiani” (The Shrine of Italian Victories) museum was the residence and final resting place of one of Italy’s most famous as well as interesting personalities… Gabriele D’Annunzio.

In the era before World War I D’Annunzio was one of Italy’s most influential politicians, a charismatic leader adored by his followers, and was regarded as a national treasure.

He was a true war hero known for his boldness and outright courage.  A “Renaissance Man”… he did it all as an artist, poet, journalist, playwright and one of Italy’s most popular, as well as controversial, writers of the 20th Century.

But another part of his lore was derived from his legendary affairs as he boasted to have seduced over 1,000 women.  Being married to a young aristocrat with three sons did not stop him from his constant affairs (sometimes multiple at once) throughout his adult life.

At 5’ 4” and not terribly attractive (some said ugly) he possessed a sexual magnetism that proved to be quite irresistible.  Perhaps this attraction was also attributed to an outlandish, exhibitionist lifestyle, his purported suave Italian demeanor, and presumably his many erotic publications that may have peaked their interests… it had to be something!

The Era of the Fascist Regime

During World War I he became a powerful figure and began asserting his very strong ultra-nationalist doctrine.  But at the same time Benito Mussolini was developing his movement with a more extreme right leaning tilt.  After the dust settled, Mussolini had more power, influence and aggression than D’Annunzio and created a more dominant form of Fascism.

The Dictator and The Poet        

Photo Credit —  Vogue Italia  —  Corbis

Eliminating the Competition

On the evening before a fateful assembly to determine the “meeting for national pacification”, the Poet was thrown out the window in his Lake Garda Villa onto the courtyard and his active career came to a bone crushing halt.

Two months later, Mussolini did his march on Rome and took control of the country.

 

The Bone Crushing Courtyard Landing Zone

  Maintain and Control

The Dictator kept him on the side lines and out of his way.  He was known to have said… “With a rotten tooth, you either pull it out, or fill it with gold!  With D’Annunzio I have chosen for the latter treatment.”

So he vastly enhanced D’Annunzio’s villa into a monumental residence, and provided him a constant supply of cocaine… in essence he literally paid him to remain out of politics.

Entrance to the Auditorium

Garden Sculpture at “Vittoriale degli Italiani”

D’Annunzio’s Actual Combat Aircraft

 In Summary

On March 1, 1938, D’Annunzio died at the age of 75 of a cerebral hemorrhage.  His funeral was a large Fascist state affair and Mussolini walked with his coffin.

The visit to Lago di Garda and the town of Gardone Rivera provided us with wonderful memories but the surprise history lesson about an unusual personality was a definite highlight.

This is but an excerpt of the more detailed story… please select the full length version on our webpage…

inspiredtravelitineraries.com

The Poet and the Dictator that Shaped the Destiny of Italy

After all, what is the hurry… be inspired.

 

© 2016 Inspired Travel Itineraries with Bob and Janice Kollar

© 2016 Picture Credits Bob & Janice Kollar

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Surprise Discovery in Gardone Rivera

We selected the town of Gardone Rivera, on the shores of Lake Garda, because of its proximity to the Sirmione Peninsula and the archaeological site of well preserved “Roman Ruins”.

We usually plan some “open time” in our travel itineraries to allow us some flexibility during a visit to a new area to explore an interesting town, or museum, or just take a spontaneous side trip.

The “Vittoriale degli Italiani” (The Shrine of Italian Victories) museum worked out perfectly and it was only five minutes from our hotel.  We actually discovered a fascinating introduction to one of Italy’s most famous as well as interesting personalities… Gabriele D’Annunzio.

 

D’Annunzio’s Villa

 The final residence of Gabriele D’Annunzio is now a museum dedicated to his life and accomplishments.  A review of this incredible man’s life makes an excellent read and provides an entertaining glimpse into the political side of Italy’s history leading up to World War II.

In the era before World War I he was one of Italy’s most influential politicians, and charismatic leader adored by his followers.  He served valiantly in the Navy, Air Force and Army as a true war hero known for his boldness and out right courage. His many medals and awards are on display in the museum.

D’Annunzio was also regarded to be a national treasure.  A “Renaissance Man”… he did it all as an artist, poet, journalist, playwright and one of Italy’s most popular as well as controversial writers of the 20th Century.

But another part of his lore was derived from his legendary affairs as he boasted to have seduced over 1,000 women.  Being married to a young aristocrat with three sons did not stop him from his constant affairs (sometimes multiple at once) throughout his adult life.

At 5’ 4” and not terribly attractive (some said ugly) he possessed a sexual magnetism that proved to be quite irresistible.  Perhaps this attraction also attributed to an outlandish, exhibitionist lifestyle, his purported suave Italian demeanor, and presumably his many erotic publications that may have peaked their interests… it had to be something!

The Era of the Fascist Regime

During World War I D’Annunzio became a powerful figure and began asserting his very strong ultra-nationalist doctrine.  But at the same time Benito Mussolini was developing his movement with a more extreme right leaning tilt.  After the dust settled, Mussolini had more power, influence and aggression than D’Annunzio and created a more dominant form of Fascism.

The Dictator and The Poet         

Photo Credit —  Vogue Italia  —  Corbis

D’Annunzio supported Mussolini and his rise to power but did not participate in the Fascist political party remaining neutral. One consistent thing; he did not like Germans and the Nazi movement and continually counseled Mussolini to avoid an alliance with Hitler… to no avail.

 Eliminating the Competition

On the evening before a fateful assembly to determine the “meeting for national pacification”, the Poet was thrown out a window of his Lake Garda Villa onto the courtyard and his active career came to a bone crushing halt.

Two months later, Mussolini did his march on Rome and took control of the country.

 

The Bone Crushing Courtyard Landing Zone

 Mussolini and his followers adopted a great deal of D’Annunzio’s ideas, his approach to government, his skills with motivating and influencing masses of people, the elaborate nationalistic ceremonies, etc… right down to the Roman Salute.

 Maintain and Control

The Dictator kept D’Annunzio on the side lines and out of his way.  Mussolini was known to have said… “With a rotten tooth, you either pull it out, or fill it with gold!  With D’Annunzio I have chosen the latter treatment.”

So he vastly enhanced D’Annunzio’s villa into a monumental residence, and provided him a constant supply of cocaine… in essence he literally paid him to remain out of politics… the window drop would have done it for me!

Vittoriale degli Italiani

Entrance to the Auditorium

Garden Sculpture at “Vittoriale degli Italiani”

Amphitheater

Also on display at the museum are his books, uniforms, medals and art work as well as a few of his war relic mementos… such as a torpedo boat, the front half of an armored cruiser, and even the hero’s airplane.

D’Annunzio’s Actual Combat Aircraft

 

One of Many Military Installations

 On March 1, 1938 D’Annunzio died at the age of 75 of a cerebral hemorrhage.  His funeral was a large Fascist state affair and Mussolini walked with his coffin.

Mussolini was quoted to say… “You may be sure Italy will arrive at the summit you dreamed of.”

In Summary

The visit to Lago di Garda and the town of Gardone Rivera provided us with memories of beautiful scenery, excellent cuisine, and exposure to the absolutely wonderful, warm and friendly people.

A definite highlight was the surprise history lesson.  By leaving some “open spots” in your daily itinerary, it is amazing what rewards come your way.

Please follow us in the next article… Exploring the Roman Ruins of Lago di Garda.

After all, what is the hurry… be inspired.

 

© 2016 Inspired Travel Itineraries with Bob and Janice Kollar

© 2016 Picture Credits Bob & Janice Kollar

 

 

 

 

The Drive from Innsbruck, Austria to Bolzano, Italy

We left Innsbruck and crossed into the northern region of Italy know as Alto Adige via the Brenner Pass.  The lowest of the Alpine passes, it is situated about 4,500 feet above sea level and has played a major role in Italy’s history.

Centuries ago it was an important trade route for Rome, and eventually becoming the strategic roadway for invasions into Italy by Austria and Germany to name a few.

Today the Brenner “Highway” remains a very significant route between Italy and Austria. But this time the invaders are holding credit cards and shopping bags as it is a major tourist gateway between these countries.

Alto Adige

The region’s cultural fusion is fascinating as the native Alpine (Austrian) people are rooted to the land and their heritage.  The impact of the World War II “adjustments” to the borders of both countries resulted in a blend of traditions, customs, wine making, cooking, and the language having a slight twist.

With German being the predominate language at hotels, restaurants, and even the street signs… we asked ourselves… are we really in Italy?

Finding the Schloss Hotel Korb        

Finding Bolzano was easy, but finding the hotel was a challenge especially with an address like this one:

Schloss Hotel Korb ag-spa,

Hocheppanerweg 5 via Castel d’Appiano

1-39050 Missian/o – Eppan/Appiano

South Tyrol / Italy

The GPS got us to the right area but that was it.  The hotel came up as unknown.

We now had to depend on our language skills (using that term lightly) and began asking directions to the hotel near Bolzano.  We wound up in a vineyard, on a gravel road, with a new car, four wheeling under a beautiful blue sky.

Bob says, “No problem, I’ll find it!”  as he reached for the cell phone to call the hotel. The Schloss Hotel Korb was very helpful and tried to find a landmark to pin point where we were and to guide us to their property.

With questions like: “Can you see a church steeple?  Does it have a cross or an onion on top?”  OK, it has a cross… now what?   We were instructed to simply drive towards that structure and we will be right on course for the hotel.

No we cannot make this stuff up… classic isn’t it?

We asked yet another local and through his 7 year old daughter (the interpreter) we were told to go down this road and turn left at the fountain and the church is down the hill on the right.

As we are finally making our way out of the vineyard, a peloton of cyclists (about 50 +) were going by at a rapid pace… where the heck did they come from?

Following the cyclist was a bunch of celebrating wedding guests, plus the bride and groom, and a dozen or so cars blaring their horns and having a great time.

There we sat, in a cloud of dust, just looking at each other and smiled and said…welcome to Italy!  

 

The Schloss Hotel Korb Experience

We finally found the Schloss Hotel Korb sign and navigated our way through more vineyards but this time on paved roads.

 

The hotel is set on top of a hillside surrounded by vineyards, overlooking the Dolomites and the valley below leading up to the village of Bolzano… picturesque is an understatement.

  

 

 

     Manicured to perfection and almost ready for the harvest

 

 Schloss Hotel Korb Ambiance and Setting

 Welcome to Schloss Hotel Korb

The Tower

 

Outdoor Dining with a View

 

Registration Area and Foyer in the Castle

The First Floor Foyer View

Sissi the Guard Dog and Greeter

 

 

The Battlement Suite in the Castle Building with an Expansive Outdoor Balcony

 

 

 

In Summary

A visit to Northern Italy is not complete until you experience the Alto Adige region.  The people, Italian & German blends of cultures, food and wine… bellissimo!

 

 

After all, what is the hurry… be inspired.

 

 

© 2016 Inspired Travel Itineraries with Bob and Janice Kollar

© 2016 Picture Credits Bob & Janice Kollar

 

 

 

We began this adventure by purchasing a Porsche Macan S and picking the car up at the Porsche factory in Zuffenhausen Germany… the road trip is now “official”.

This segment of the series is dedicated to our adventures while touring the Lago di Garda area in the Lake Country of Northern Italy.

 

The Drive from Bolzano to Lago di Garda

We departed Bolzano for a two and a half hour straight-shot drive to Lago di Garda.  About an hour out we approached a major decision point and road juncture.

The autostrada turned into a spaghetti bowl kind of interchange that provided routing to Milan, Verona, Trento, Bologna and Venice as well as dozens of other smaller cities.

As we approached this juncture our primary GPS just goes up and dies so we pull off to the side of the roadway and go to Plan B… our backup GPS which was provided by Porsche.

OK… who knows how to even turn it on or, better yet, how to program it?

Let’s go to Plan C… the backup map pages we used to originally prep for the trip months ago at home.  What do you mean the page we need is missing?

Let’s go to Plan D… Google Maps on the cell phone.  What? No cell connectivity?

We both looked at each other and quoted a famous movie line… something like…“What should we do now?   PANIC”.

After a good laugh, we continued to head south.  And, as we were driving along, the primary GPS miraculously came back to life and we were actually on the right road!  Our travel angels had enough amusement so they cut us a break.

 

Lago di Garda

Lago di Garda is the largest lake in Italy and is about 31 miles long and 12 miles wide.  The 99 mile shoreline surrounds a lake that has a surface area of about 143 square miles…huge is an understatement.

 

Special Moments in a Tunnel

As we navigated the narrow roads through tunnel after tunnel along the shoreline of Lago di Garda we noticed how little room we had causing some stress.  This stress was coming to a head as a big truck with a square roof was heading toward us in a tunnel with a round ceiling.  Hey…he is now straddling the center stripe and driving on our side of the road!

This is going to be close… how do you fold in the mirrors to gain a little space?  What button do you push?  Where is the owner’s manual?  We moved as far right as possible and braced for the possible impact… bye-bye nice new car!  Maybe just a mirror?

We took a deep breath and grit our teeth…once again the invisible force field that surrounds this car, and our travel angels came through as the truck passed inches, seriously, just inches away.

 

Benito Mussolini and Lago di Garda

One of Garda’s most famous resident was the fascist dictator Benito Mussolini who lived near the town of Gargnano.  Mussolini’s personal residence and headquarters were established in the confiscated Villa Feltrinelli which is situated directly on the lake shore with an expansive view of the lake and mountains.

The villa was returned to the Feltrinelli family after WW II and eventually changed hands and in the 1990’s it became the Grand Hotel Villa Feltrinelli.  You, too, can stay there for the starting price of $1,500 per night.

 

The Hotel Dimora Bolsone

We opted for a wonderful Bed & Breakfast on the hillside overlooking the town of Gardone Riviera.  This 15^th century guest house is situated in a 20 acre park with stunning views of the lake.  We even had covered parking next to a vintage Morgan.

The Hotel Dimora Bolsone is owned and managed by a charming gentlemen by the name of Raffael.  He was assisted by the very attentive and friendly Jessica and the delightful Sabrina.  They represent the true essence of Italian hospitality and provided us with a wealth of local knowledge.

We really lucked out…when we made our reservation we did not realize that the B&B was an “agriturismo” property.

As such they are required to produce at least 40% of everything they serve their guests from their land…we enjoyed their vegetables, herbs, eggs, wine, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, chickens, rabbits, pigs… adding a real meaning to the words “farm fresh”.

 

Hilltop Country Road Entrance 

 

The Hotel and Registration         Photo Credit: Hotel Dimora Bolsone

 

Patio Setting           Photo Credit: Hotel Dimora Bolsone

Lago di Garda

 

Sumptuous and Fresh Breakfast Buffet

Our Breakfast Table with a View

 

Exceptional Dining with Chef Marko 

All of the meals were perfectly prepared and the presentation was excellent.  And you could split any of the entrees allowing us the opportunity to taste new delicacies and not overdo it.

A few of our favorite things

 

Local Wine

 

Enchanting Evening Views 

 

 

 Carpaccio Beef slices with marinated Lemons and Vegetables 

Antipasti

 

Raw Shrimp Stack Antipasti

 

 

Lemon Salad – A Very Unusual Dish

 

 

Homemade Pappardelle with Rabbit Ragu and Black Olives (split)

 

 

Venison Medallion on Scalloped Potatoes (split)

 

 

 

Gardone Riviera and Gabriele D’Annunzio

When we planned this trip we had no idea who Gabriele D’Annunzio was or his connection to Gardone Riviera.  But all that changed after our visit to his residence- turned-museum that he named the “Vittoriale degli Italiani (The Shrine of Italian Victories)”.

This hillside estate was the home of the famous Italian politician, war hero, and charismatic leader.  As a true “Renaissance Man” he was an artist, poet, journalist, playwright and one of Italy’s most popular, as well as controversial, writers of the 20th Century.

Another part of his lore was resultant from his numerous and legendary affairs with high profile women.  It may have been attributed to his outlandish lifestyle or the possibility that his famous erotic literature got their attention.

As a warrior he became a legend due to his daring and bold actions.  When he returned from the war he was an international hero and had been awarded a gold medal, five silver, a bronze, and the officer’s cross of the Savoy Military Order.  He even got the Military Cross from Britain.  All are on display in the museum and the tour was fantastic.

Vittoriale degli Italiani       Museum Entrance

Residence / Museum

 

The Courtyard 

 

A Garden Sculpture

Dare in Brocca – “Hit the Mark” Sculpture – Inspired the Beretta Firearms Trident Logo

 

D’Annunzio’s     WW I Plane

 

 

­­­­­­­

In Summary

We are now in full relaxed mode and travel induced stress has faded away… or is it the wine?

We want to introduce a series format change to focus on special side trips at a destination.

Please follow us in the next article…

Exit Ahead  —  Exploring the Roman Ruins of Lago di Garda.

 

After all, what is the hurry… be inspired.

 

 

 

© 2016 Inspired Travel Itineraries with Bob and Janice Kollar

© 2016 Picture Credits Bob & Janice Kollar

 

 

 

 

 

 

We began this adventure by purchasing a Porsche Macan S and picking the car up at the Porsche factory in Zuffenhausen Germany… the road trip is now “official”.

This segment of the series is dedicated to our adventures while touring Bolzano in Northern Italy.

 

The Drive from Innsbruck to Bolzano, Italy

We left Innsbruck before noon for the less than two hour drive to one of our favorite wine regions in Italy, Alto Adige and the city of Bolzano.  The primary road system connecting Innsbruck and Bolzano is the Brenner Pass.

The Brenner Pass is the lowest Alpine pass situated about 4,500 feet above sea level and played a major role in Italy’s history for centuries.  Initially as an important trade route for Rome, and then eventually it became the roadway of choice for invasions into Italy by Austria and Germany to name a few.

Today the Brenner Highway remains a very significant route between Italy and Austria. But this time the invaders are holding credit cards and shopping bags as it is a major tourist gateway between these countries.

 

Entering Italy

We are now entering a unique part of Italy known as South Tyrol which is located in Italy’s northern-most province.

This region’s cultural fusion is fascinating as the native Alpine (Austrian) people are rooted to the land and their heritage. The impact of the World War II “adjustments” to the borders of both countries resulted in a blend of traditions, customs, wine making, cooking, and the language having a slight twist.

With German being the predominate language at hotels, restaurants, and even the street signs… we asked ourselves… are we really in Italy?

As we mentioned before, Austria collects a road tax via a tax decal known as a vignette but Italy still prefers toll booths, paper tickets, money exchanges and most of all traffic chaos.

Welcome to Italy

 

Finding the Schloss Hotel Korb        

Finding Bolzano was easy, but finding the hotel was a challenge especially with an address like this one:

Schloss Hotel Korb ag-spa,

Hocheppanerweg 5 via Castel d’Appiano

1-39050 Missian/o – Eppan/Appiano

South Tyrol / Italy

 

Close but no cigar… The GPS got us to the right area but that was it.  The hotel came up as unknown.

We now had to depend on our language skills (using that term lightly) and began asking directions to the hotel which was near Bolzano.

Of course Bob said, “I can get us there without any more hassles” as we wound up in a vineyard, on a gravel road, with a new car, four wheeling it under a beautiful blue sky.

Funny how all hilltop castles look alike when you a seeking a landmark for your destination!

“No problem” he said as he reached for the cell phone to call the hotel.  The Schloss Hotel Korb staff was very helpful and tried to find a landmark to pin point where we were and to guide us to their property.

With questions like: “Can you see a church steeple?  Does it have a cross or an onion on top?”  No we cannot make this stuff up… classic isn’t it?

OK, it has a cross… now what?  We were instructed to simply drive towards that structure and we will be right on course for the hotel.  Really…we are still on dirt roads in a series of vineyards and now apple orchards.

Not being the shy types (and perhaps a bit nervous) we asked yet another local and through his 7 year old daughter (the interpreter) we were told to go down this road and turn left at the fountain and the church is down the hill on the right.

We were also advised that there was a wedding going on so be careful as you drive past it.

As we are making our way out of the vineyard, a peloton of cyclists (about 50 +) were going by at a rapid pace… where the heck did they come from?

Following the cyclist was a bunch of celebrating wedding guests, plus the bride and groom, and a dozen or so cars blaring their horns and having a great time.

There we sat, in a cloud of dust, just looking at each other and smiled and said…welcome to Italy!

 

The Schloss Hotel Korb Experience

We finally found the Schloss Hotel Korb sign and navigated our way through more vineyards but this time on paved roads.

 

Notice the road signs in German

 

The hotel is set on top of a hillside surrounded by vineyards, overlooking the Dolomites and the valley below leading up to the village of Bolzano… picturesque is an understatement.

 

 

 Manicured to perfection and almost ready for the harvest

   

Schloss Hotel Korb Ambiance and Setting

 

Welcome to Schloss Hotel Korb

 

The Tower

 

Outdoor Dining with a View

 

Registration Area and Foyer in the Castle

 

The First Floor Foyer View

Sissi the Guard Dog and Greeter

 

 

The Battlement Suite in the Castle Building with an Expansive Balcony

 

Schloss Hotel Korb Dining

 The Castle host and vintner, Fritz Dellago maintains a wine cellar which contains over 35,000 bottles of exceptional fine wines as well as the outstanding offerings from his own Fritz Dellago vineyards.

The dining experience was pure Tyrolian gourmet meals expertly prepared by Stefan Unterkircher, a certified dietary chef, global master chef and sommelier using the finest, natural ingredients seasoned with herbs from the Castle’s large garden.

 

Late Afternoon Aperitif before Dinner

  

Monday Night Grill – Beef, Chicken and Pork – Prepared to Order

 Trays and Trays of Excellent Appetizers for all Taste Buds

 

Grilled Shrimp Prawns

 

Fine Grill Dining

 

Breakfast and Culinary Experiences

 

Typical Daily Breakfast Offerings

 

Lavish Buffet Tables plus Many Hot Breakfast Options

 

Day Two in Bolzano

Being a Sunday we had limited options so we focused on visiting a unique tourist attraction, and a renowned Alto Adige wine merchant.

Trauttmansdorff Castle in Merano (Meran)

The Gardens and Tourism Museum located at the Trauttmansdorff Castle are very unique tourist attractions.

A section of the approximately 30 Acre Botanical Gardens

 

Entrance to the Museum

The Castle was originally the holiday residence of the Empress Elisabeth of Austria in the late 1870s and has been converted into the South Tyrol Museum of Tourism.  This museum was the first of its kind and was dedicated to the 200 year history of Alpine Tourism.

Before World War I the area was a thriving attraction because of the magnificent scenery, luxurious resorts and hot-springs spa centers.  The picturesque landscapes became the front lines and the palatial hotels were converted into field hospitals.

These resourceful people lived through it and actually expanded upon the developments that took place.  Cable car technology was greatly expanded during the war as was Alpine skiing since both made troop movement/utilization more efficient.

The museum displays focused on the premise… “Tourism and war seem at first glance to be mutually exclusive. This exhibition shows how closely they are in fact related.”

It turned out to be a very interesting place to visit and with the use of creative interactive displays, mechanical theater shows, films, audios and detailed exhibits the story was alive and not in the least bit boring.

Tourism on Display

World’s Largest Hand Carved Wooden Pin Ball Machine

 

 Kaltern and Wine Merchants

Kaltern is a picturesque medieval town and is the hub for the over 400 wine producers that surround Lake Kaltern and the plateau area near Mendel Mountain.  The co-operative is officially known as “Erste + Neue Kellereigenossenschaft”… has such an Italian ring to it, too.

The Erste + Neue winery has been a key component in the wine trade in Kaltern for well over 100 years and they create excellent regional, Sudtirol Alto Adige offerings.

Their wines were exceptional, but we had to do a lot of quality control testing to make sure they are consistent… they were!

Wine Tasting Room – Spacious and Friendly

 

Large Selections and Reasonable Prices

 

We spent two refreshing and energizing days in the wine country of northern Italy.  We also stocked up on our favorite wine to be enjoyed over the next three weeks of our road trip vacation.

The next day, we departed for the four+ hour drive to Largo Garda as we dropped further into the Italian lake country.

 

In Summary

We are heading south into the Italian lake country and warmer weather. The road trip adventure continues to enrich our travel lust and test our driving skills.  More to come on that aspect in the next part of the series.

 

Please follow us in the series to part nine… exploring Lago di Garda, Italy.

 

 

After all, what is the hurry… be inspired.

 

 

© 2015 Inspired Travel Itineraries with Bob and Janice Kollar

© 2015 Picture Credits Bob & Janice Kollar

 

 

 

 

We began this adventure by purchasing a Porsche Macan S and picking the car up at the Porsche factory in Zuffenhausen Germany… the road trip is now “official”.

This segment of the series is dedicated to our adventures while touring the Innsbruck, Austria area.

 

The Drive from Salzburg to Innsbruck

We left Salzburg before noon and headed straight to the “famous” Grossglockner High Alpine Road and this time a “suggested” side trip lived up to the hype.

This panoramic drive twists and turns up 29 miles (48 km) into the heart of the Hohe Tauern National Park… breath taking views and car challenging exchanges… the weather was perfect and clear.

There is a broad, four lane road approaching the ticket toll gate where the bulk of the cars turn off and head back down to avoid paying the entrance fee.  “Yep, I drove the Alpine Road”… but they probably do not mention that they just drove the few miles of roadway leading up to the toll gate.  ­­

What a mistake…  for about $40 you get access to a meticulously maintained roadway that affords majestic views on every turn.  You leave a warm green valley floor and drive up to cold, snow covered Alps.

We even made snow balls!

 

Car Window Decal Presented for Driving the Alpine Road

 

 Grossglockner High Alpine Road Hochtor Pass

Warm and Lush Valley Floor

 

Snowball Making Country

 

Onward to Innsbruck

After “testing out” the suspension system, handling capabilities and getting familiar with the PDK paddles (excellent for downshifting on alpine roads) on Max, we set course for Innsbruck.

The goods news… we experienced the Grossglockner. The not so good news (a mixed blessing)… we had to take local backroads for over three hours to get into Innsbruck.

But driving through small country towns and the absolutely spectacular scenery made up for the extra drive time.

We arrived in Innsbruck at around 6:00 pm, unloaded the car and parked in an underground secure space.   After a brief introduction to the apartment we opened a bottle of wine to celebrate our day of travel and fun experiences.

 

Three Nights with Two Days in Innsbruck

Day One – The Mieders Alpine Coaster

Located a short twenty minute drive from Innsbruck is a very popular recreational area at the base of the “Serles” mountain peak which is 1.7 miles (2,717 meters) high.  At the base of this peak is the town of Mieders and the “infamous” Alpine Coaster.

The scenery is stunning as you enjoy a brief gondola ride to the top of the track.

The coaster is the steepest track in the Alps that runs about 2 miles long through the forest and down the mountain at a max speed of about 26 miles per hour.

“No big deal”, you say.  Well, when seated in a single passenger bobsled-like device with a small seat belt strap and no other protective equipment… and only a brake-stick to control your speed… it gets interesting fast.  This is a gravity driven coaster and consists of 40 hairpin turns so the driver is hands-on at the controls.

The One Person Coasters

 

Downhill into the forest  with a few obstacles – Note the Cows

 

What a rush of adrenaline that turned out to be.  As we got more comfortable, the braking got less and let-it-rip took over… great fun.

We returned to Innsbruck around noon and had a chance to just wander around and explore this compact town.

 

The Sill River runs through the center of town

 Goldenes Dachl and Museum

 

The Old Town Plaza

 

We selected a restaurant on the touristy plaza area and enjoyed a few pints of draft pilsner with a great Tyrolian lunch.  The setting added a perfect spot for people watching as we savored the vibe of Innsbruck on a cloudy but warm September afternoon.

Excellent Dining on the Plaza

­­­­­­­

Wurst with Pan Fired Potatoes and Sauerkraut

        Rossti topped with Grilled Chicken      

       

The weather improved a little as we strolled around peeking into various little shops and boutiques with unique items on display.

Upon returning to the apartment we were greeted by a rainbow which just added to the day.

 

We asked a local about nearby restaurants that served good Tyrol food and we wound up at the Defregger Stube, which was located in a nearby unpretentious hotel.   Sometimes you just luck out and this time we did…

Steak Tartare

House Salad

Tyrolian Roast Beef Pan with an Egg

Tyrolian Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

Buttered Spätzle with Cheese

What a surprise and the food and service was excellent too.

Our first full day proved to be great.

 

Day Two – The Schloss Neuschwanstein Castle

The drive from Innsbruck to the castle was about 70 miles (114 km) on a combination of highway and mountain roads so it took us over two hours to get there.

We pre-paid tickets for an English speaking guided tour (which confirmed a reservation time slot) and had to pick them up in Fussen which is a short distance (on the map) from the actual castle.

But they forget to tell us that traffic and parking are literally a nightmarish experience. We are from Los Angeles and we know traffic… this was ridiculous.

The Castle Experience

The Schloss Neuschwanstein Castle was promoted as being the model for Disneyland’s Cinderella Castle and the two have a lot in common.  Both locations are geared to get the most money out of each visitor and are the epitome of crowd control management.

Neuschwanstein is a relatively “young” castle having been partially completed around the 1860 period.  The actual castle was small in size and limited in scope… the entire tour takes only 25 minutes.

In our opinion we did not feel that dealing with the traffic, people crush, assorted expenses (admission, parking and transportation to the summit), for a brief hand-held audio device tour was worth it.

Picturesque from the outside at a distance… yes.

Worth spending a day of your vacation… no.

 

The Return to Innsbruck

The entire day was taken up by the visit to the castle but at least we saw it… check-the-box.

The drive back was effortless on the now familiar roadway and finding the apartment was easy.  That night we returned to the same nearby restaurant for another excellent authentic Tyrolian meal.

The next morning we packed up and headed out for Bolzano, Italy.

 

In Summary

This leg of the road trip was more relaxed, we started to slow down the pace and began to simplify the itinerary with a more practical use of our limited vacation time.

Side Note: If we were renting a car, and started outside of Italy we could NOT bring that rental into Italy.  But driving your own vehicle made the road trip seamless.

But don’t you wonder why rental companies restrict entry into Italy…?  Stay tuned.

 

Please follow us in the series to part eight… Bolzano.   Italy… at last.

 

After all, what is the hurry… be inspired.

 

© 2015 Inspired Travel Itineraries with Bob and Janice Kollar

© 2015 Picture Credits Bob & Janice Kollar

 

 

We began this adventure by purchasing a Porsche Macan S and picking the car up at the Porsche factory in Zuffenhausen Germany… the road trip is now “official”.

This segment of the series is dedicated to our adventures while touring the Salzburg area.

Salzburg Arrival

The drive took about four hours and everything went smoothly.

We did experience a few eye openers along the way, one being the price of fuel.  We complain about the price of fuel in the States but we were experiencing close to $7 per gallon on this journey.

But the strangest was the turnstiles that made you pay one euro ($1.15) to use the public bathrooms along the highway… they had you coming and going.

 Change of Plans

 We originally allotted seven nights in Salzburg but were encouraged to include a stay in Innsbruck, so we added a few interesting day trips to justify the revision of our itinerary.

The rule-of-thumb is simple…stay someplace for four nights and you get three days of touring since the travel time at both ends knocks off a day.

Another is to keep a wander-around day in the schedule and enjoy the unexpected museum or shopping or restaurant, and relax over a glass of wine or coffee.

Most importantly, simply take in the new environment you traveled so far to see.

Driving a new car and the excitement of the road trip made our experienced map reading brains go into overload… heck we can get there and go there and maybe there too all in one day… reality bites.

The laws of physics usually win over enthusiasm.

Four Nights with Three Days in Salzburg

We ultimately selected a day in Old Town Salzburg, a spontaneous family reunion, and the Werfen Giant Ice Caves.

 A Day in Old Town Salzburg

Before we left on the trip we arranged for a private tour of the famous “Old Town” area and booked the “Rickshaw Company” to provide the unique experience with local flavor.

We left the apartment on foot at noon for a 2:00 PM meeting with Marko, the driver, at a famous landmark in Mozart’s hometown…the Mozart Statue in the Morzartplatz.

Mozart Statue in Morzartplatz

Do not assume a landmark will be easy to find.

How can anyone NOT find this prominent landmark?

Old Town is just that… a city evolving from a center core or to put it in another way, a lot of winding, twisting streets that hide landmark statues.  That is our story and we are sticking with it.

Embarrassing as it is, we the experienced travelers, could not initially find the statue.  So here we are without a map, tour guide book or internet connectivity wandering around Old Town Salzburg freezing our collective toes off.

We finally meet our guide Marko and had our city tour in a rickshaw… check-the-box.

Rickshaw Company City Tour

The tour people suggested an excellent local favorite restaurant …the “Zum Zirkelwirt” (circa 1647).

Home Made Beef Goulash with Bread Dumpling  

                    

Classic Wiener Schnitzel

Now that we were fortified by a wonderful meal and some local pilsner we were off to do a little shopping only to be reminded that being Sunday, most of the nice shops were closed.

We returned “home” to warm up and enjoy a relaxing evening in prep for the morning drive to Melk, Austria.

 The Family Meeting

Genealogy is something we have been exploring for over ten years and we kept getting close but because of the language barrier things were not moving too well.

One of my cousins, Adam, “found” us recently on twitter and bridged the gap.  His contact led to the meeting and we rearranged our calendar in an effort to explore family roots.

We met at a midpoint between Salzburg and their home town of Velke Kostolany, Slovakia in the stunning city of Melk, Austria for a truly wonderful family connection.

Marian, Adam, Milan and Bob reviewing our family tree documents

The Werfen Giant Ice Caves

 The drive was easy and the Austrian scenery was spectacular.

We were looking forward to visiting this unusual tourist attraction known as the “largest ice cave in the world”.  Our plan was to tour the cave and then seek out a few castles that dotted the countryside all along our driving route… such optimism… new car enthusiasm clouds one’s logic!

 Inside the Werfen Giant Ice Caves

To preface this… we are both in very good physical shape.  The hike from the parking area was all up hill and took over one hour, plus a brief gondola ride, followed by a twenty minute hike to the mouth of the cave, and then into a cave of frozen ice… what else would be in an ice cave you ask?

That is when we found out that we were about to take a dimly lit walking tour (up and down slopes) consisting of 1,036 wet steps about 18 inches wide, with and without railings, and it would last for over 80 frigid minutes….

We were wearing a lot of layered clothes… fleece vest, two sweaters, long pants, socks and walking shoes… but still froze.  We actually paid someone for this frozen privilege?

Big Hint: Read the fine print and the numerous TripAdvisor reviews (the negative ones, too) before you embark on any tour.  The promotional picture for the cave had to be photo shopped as the cave is dark and photography was not permitted… for a darn good reason.

 Back to Salzburg – Marionette Theater Performance

The morning of the performance we were notified that the Salzburg Marionette Theater performance of “The Sound of Music” was cancelled due to an injury of one of the puppeteers and another called in sick.

Sound of Music Marionette Cast

So from Rogers and Hammerstein and familiar music to the alternate selection which was Mozart and the “Magic Flute”.  Since we really wanted to see the famous marionette show we agreed to the exchange.

We were not disappointed as the theater is truly beautiful.  The puppeteers are extremely talented and we were spellbound by their fluid movements of the life like characters in the play.

After a nice meal in town, we once again headed “home” to prepare for the next day’s drive to Innsbruck.

In Summary

This leg of the road trip was a learning experience and we had to make do with a short visit and a rushed one at that.  We broke our travel mantra and limited our exposure to a very interesting region.

Please follow us in the series to part seven….Innsbruck.. where we picked up the pace and drove on some legendary Alpine roads.

After all, what is the hurry… be inspired.

 

 

© 2015 Inspired Travel Itineraries with Bob and Janice Kollar

© 2015 Picture Credits Bob & Janice Kollar

 

 

We began this adventure by purchasing a Porsche Macan S and picking the car up at the Porsche factory in Zuffenhausen, Germany… the road trip is now “official”.

This segment of the series is dedicated to the actual driving experiences along the way.

 Gentlemen Start Your Engines…. We are off!

We began our day with a breakfast feast at the Hotel Schlossgarten, and retrieved the car from his “special” underground, secure parking place reserved for hotel guests.

Stuttgart is the home of Porsche and Mercedes Benz so the hotel is used to accommodating the paranoid owners of new cars that are over protective of their investment… as the trip progressed the paranoia waned a little, but just a little.

The Rules

When we picked up the car at the factory we were informed of some very strict “rules”.

We had to sign documents that, in essence, acknowledged that we have a thirty day German registration, and thirty days of insurance coverage.  Porsche paid half the premium and we paid the other half. The effective rate for the insurance exceeded $6,000 per year.

Max had an unusual red license plate which denoted temporary status and our get-out-of-town date prominently displayed… 02 10 15.

We were also provided two Day-Glo yellow vests that, by law, were required to be in the car.  In the event of any road breakdowns we must put them on BEFORE we leave the car to inspect the “whatever”… it is the law.

Locked and Loaded

We loaded the car and dialed in the Salzburg apartment’s address as we headed south with a car full of luggage and our traditional assortment of roadie snacks.  Yes, we ate food in Max on the very first leg of the trip… has to happen sometime!

Loaded luggage area and our temporary red license plate

The Autobahn and Speed

Once we nervously navigated the narrow city streets we transitioned to the autobahn and the first thing that we noticed was how fast the cars were moving.

Driving on the autobahn is fun and we knew that there are sections with no posted speed limits, but until you get passed by the blur of another machine, especially when you are “cruising” along at 110+ MPH …do you realize just how fast they are traveling.

We are simply not used to be driving at these speeds and left it to the people with the experience and expertise to navigate the road at over 150 MPH.

A typical scenic section of the Autobahn

 Getting Comfortable with MAX

 As we drove we noticed that the car began to create a comfortable and enveloping environment for each of us.  All the controls were just in the right place and easy to access.  The car provides continuous feedback and after a while it all begins to fit into a logical and smooth process.

The old “fits like a glove” cliché became a reality during the initial hours in the car.

All the controls are ergonomically arranged for speedy control

Actually driving a new car in Europe was NOT easy

Domestic Car Delivery

Please reflect on driving a factory fresh, brand new car in the town where you currently live, and on roads that are completely familiar to you. The driving and parking laws are well known and even the typical personality of the drivers that you interact with every day are part of your “normal” driving environment.

You even get to park your new pride and joy at your home, safe and sound, right after a few laps around town.

But we bet that you would still be filled with a lot of trepidation and be as cautious as possible.

European Car Delivery

Now throw all of that out the window and image driving your brand new car in a completely different environment where every mile driven is a first-time experience.  It brings a little sweat to your palms.

Bonding with the car was the easy part and we got really good at driving it motivated by pure fear and survival instincts.

Are we going to get crunched by that truck, or get scratched by that wall?  Get a door ding in a parking lot?  What about that rock that just hit the windshield?  Do you see any damage?

There were many times when we believed that Max had some kind of force-field protecting him.

For instance, there was the time going through a narrow tunnel near Lake Garda, Italy when a tall truck coming at us had to cross over the center line because its roof was too high and he had to “borrow” some of our lane.

We really thought that this was bye-bye nice new car and hello to a ripped side section from either the truck or the wall of the tunnel.   We sincerely do not know how we got through that close encounter.

How about the sheer thrill of slaloming numerous, extremely tight road construction sections next to other cars and trucks that are only a few feet away…so close you can literally reach out and touch them?  Oh yeah, all this entertainment at freeway speeds.

Big truck and small roads… oh joy

 How about driving through seemingly endless tunnels going under the Alps or the many dark and eerie tunnels through the hills of Carrara, Italy?

How long is this tunnel going to be?

We all made it back safely

Max was such an exciting car to drive and was very luxurious but not pretentious, flashy or obnoxious… a true stealth sports car in the body of a crossover containing some of Porsche’s latest technology.

When we dropped him off at the end of our trip we were very attached to Max.  We did not realize that we would have to wait two to three months before we could actually see him again and that put a slight damper on our enthusiasm.

In retrospect, would we do it again?  Absolutely… all good things come to those who wait and we enjoy reliving all the tales and experiences with our friends and family to the refrains of…. “wow… did you guys actually do that?”.

If you are ready for the challenges from initial procurement through final delivery….go for the adventure!

In Summary

 The road trip was an amazing experience punctuated with moments a sheer joy and sheer apprehension.

Everything was intensified because we were driving our new car in some very challenging and unfamiliar destinations.

A rental car, no problem but when it is your own it’s a different story.

We experienced many fun and interesting destinations and will continue the series based on those road trip related tales.

Please follow us in the series to part six….Austria.

After all, what is the hurry… be inspired.

© 2015 Inspired Travel Itineraries with Bob and Janice Kollar

© 2015 Picture Credits Bob & Janice Kollar